The French Chef Brings a French Masterpiece

Neither elegant nor provincial, Julia Child is a woman whose merits will outlive many generations. Her efforts brought otherwise unheard of techniques to everyday cooking, and has inspired some of today’s greatest culinary minds. I have always had a particular affinity towards Julia: her profound understanding of the French style combined with the humility of a New England domestic gave her cookbooks their irresistible charm. The ending of Julia's memoir, My Life in France, beautifully captures her (and my) idea of a life worth living: "...the pleasures of the table, and of life, are infinite - toujours bon appétit!" Having successfully tested several of her savory dishes (most notably the Coq a Vin), I was pining for an opportunity to try one of her sweeter classics. Such an opportunity arose when a colleague of mine suggested a dinner party to celebrate America’s first culinary star, and asked that I provide the dessert. Given that the main course would be Julia's celebrated bœuf bourguignon, and that there would only be 7 or 8 of us, I needed a dessert that was rich yet modest. 

I have a small confession: I own over 40 cookbooks, and close to 100 cooking magazines, and almost ALL the recipes I use are from online!? Don't get my wrong, a number of my inspirations have been derived from this massive collection, but I then search for modified versions online. This is both a waste of valuable resources and of shelf space. As such, I have vowed to reference my books more often (especially considering half of the baking blogs I peruse cite these very books themselves). This dinner party was the perfect opportunity, seeing as how I own several Julia Child cookbooks (her most famous depicted in the photo above). Flipping through the pages of my personal favorite, The Way to Cook, I found just the cake: Reine de Saba (Queen of Sheba) Cake.

This single-layer cake was perfect: a gorgeous texture, with the melded flavor of chocolate and almond, infused with hints of coffee, then topped with a creamy layer of whipped ganache. Julia speaks of the beauty of French cakes, and how their simplicity is a remarkable contrast to the overbearing desserts of American households. She loved this classic so much, that it makes an appearance in three of her books. This cake sounded so simple and elegant that I had to make it...then I realized how this cake was anything but simple.

I highly recommend a thorough review of the recipe, from start to finish, before proceeding. There are a number of steps and techniques (and LOTS of mixing, shown above) that will be impossible to carry through without a full understanding of what comes next. All ingredients and tools should be pre-measured and organized, so that there is no pause during preparation. I thought I had botched the entire cake when I missed a step, yet quick thinking and careful supervision saved it. The result: one of the BEST chocolate cakes I have ever made. In other words, this cake is well worth the patience (Note: I have modified this recipe so as to make it slightly less intimidating - Julia's processes are great, but streamlining is a possibility, and will still provide a fabulous cake!) 

Reine de Saba (Queen of Sheba) Cake

Adapted via The Way to Cook, by Julia Child

Yields: 6 - 8 servings

Ingredients: 

   - 3 ounces sweet baking chocolate (I used Ghiradelli 60% Cacao)

   - 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate 

   - 2 tablespoons dark rum or strong coffee (I used coffee) 

   - 4 ounces (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

   - 1/2 cup sugar

   - 3 egg yolks

   - 3 egg whites (a scant 1/2 cup), at room temperature 

   - 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

   - A pinch of salt 

   - 2 tablespoons sugar

   

   - 1/3 cup blanched almonds pulverized with 2 tbsp sugar (in a blender or processor) 

   - 1/4 teaspoon almond extract (vanilla can be substituted, but not recommended) 

   - 1/2 cup plain cake flour (scooped and leveled) in a sifter/sieve set on wax paper

Directions: 

For starters: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F, and set the rack in the lower middle level. Butter and flour an 8- by 1 1/2-inch cake pan; set aside. Set out all the ingredients and equipment listed (CRUCIAL!) Break up the chocolate into a small heatproof bowl and add the rum or coffee; set above a pan filled with 2 to 3 inches of water; bring to a simmer - stir until the chocolate is smooth and glistening.

For starting the batter: Butter, sugar, and egg yolks. Cut the butter into pieces and cream it in the mixing bowl. When soft and fluffy, add the sugar and beat 1 minute, then beat in the egg yolks one at a time

For egg whites: (Note: Julia recommends wiping the mixing bowl with vinegar and salt prior to beating the egg whites - this aids the emulsification process - not necessary, though; she also recommends the egg whites be at room temperature). Using a giant balloon whip, or a hand-held electric mixer, or a mixer on a stand, start beating the egg whites at moderately slow speed until they are foaming throughout – 2 minutes or so. Add a pinch of salt (unless you have rubbed the bowl with salt before you started in,) and add cream of tartar – a stabilizer. Gradually increase the speed to fast (moderately fast if you have a heavy-duty mixer) and continue until soft peaks are formed. Gradually beat in the 2 tablespoons of sugar and continue until stiff shining peaks are formed.

For finishing the batter: At once blend the warm, smoothly melted chocolate and the coffee into the yolk mixture, then the almonds and almond extract. Stir a quarter of the egg whites into the chocolate to lighten it. Scoop the rest of the whites over the chocolate and, alternating with sprinkles of flour, rapidly and delicately fold in the egg whites.

For baking: bake the cake for 25 minutes at 350 degrees F. Immediately turn the batter into the prepared pan, tilting it in all directions to run it up to the rim all around, and set it in the preheated oven. When is it done? The cake is done when it has puffed to the top of the pan and a toothpick plunged into the cake 2 and 3 inches from the edges of the pan comes out clean. The center, however, should move slightly when the pan is gently shaken. (Chocolate cakes of the French type should not be cooked dry.)

Remove the pan to the rack and let cool 15 minutes; unmold onto the rack. Let cool completely – 2 hours – before serving or icing.

Ahead-of-time note: May be wrapped airtight and refrigerated for 2 to 3 days, or may be frozen for several weeks. That limit is for the safe side. (Anne - I made my cake a day ahead of time, having placed a layer of parchment on the top of bottom of the cake, then wrapped it in parchment paper). French chocolate cakes are at their best when served at near room temperature – chilled, the chocolate is partly congealed rather than being softly yielding. 

For icing and decorating the cake: You may serve the cake simply with a dusting of confectioners’ sugar, or with the soft chocolate icing described here and a design of whole or shaved almonds on top. 

Soft Chocolate Icing

For an 8-inch cake

   - 2 ounces sweet chocolate (I used Ghiradelli 60% Cacao) 

   - 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate

   - 1 1/2 tablespoons rum or strong coffee

   - A pinch of salt

   - 3 ounces (6 tablespoons) unsalted butter, at room temperature

Directions: 

Melt the chocolates with the rum or coffee as instructed in “For starters” above. When smooth and glistening, beat in the salt, then the butter one tablespoon at a time. Beat over cold water until firm enough to spread. Turn the icing on top of the cake; spread it over the top and sides.

The Vegan Experiment

The words "eggless" and "dairy-free" are two that can become a baker's worst nightmare. My friend Laynard, a devoted vegan, just recently celebrated his birthday, and was ecstatic when I offered my baking services. Yet after hours of surfing my favorite sites (while watching outdated episodes of SNL on Hulu), I discovered the innate challenges vegan baking can present. From egg replacers to soy yogurts, I had to fully familiarize myself with a vocabulary of foreign terms and ingredients. It was Whole Foods (go figure) that came to the rescue with a gorgeous cake PERFECT for fall weather - Triple-Layer Vegan Carrot Cake with Soy Cream Cheese Frosting

 Knowing full well that Whole Foods carries all the necessary ingredients, I endeavored to restock my baking staples with vegan-friendly items. This included Ener-G Egg Replacer, Earth Balance “Butter” Sticks, and Tofutti Cream Cheese. Despite the guarantee that these supplements would work “just like the real thing,” you can imagine my apprehension as a first-time vegan baker.

To make a long story short, this cake was amazing! There obviously was an altered look to the cakes, and they were quite fragile as well. So long as you handle the layers carefully, the shape of the cake will be maintained. The frosting, while not as rich as your traditional cream frosting, provided a delicious alternative. The cake had a lush texture with a moist crumb – so for those looking to experiment with the terms “eggless” and “dairy,” this cake receives my stamp of approval! One minor confession (but don’t all of my posts have these?): I used canola oil rather than safflower, but the substitution was by no means a game-changer. I also omitted the raisins, but I can blame Whole Foods for not having any in stock (and for some reason the convenience store down the block was just too far away to bother). Enjoy!

Triple-Layer Vegan Carrot Cake with Soy Cream Cheese Frosting

Adapted via Whole Foods

Serves 14 - 16

Ingredients

Carrot Cake:  

   - 2 1/2 cups flour
   - 1 teaspoon salt
   - 2 teaspoons baking soda
   - 4 teaspoons baking powder
   - 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
   - 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
   - 1 teaspoon ground ginger
   - 3 tablespoons egg replacer
   - 2 cups light brown sugar
   - 1 cup safflower oil (I used canola)
   - 1 cup almond milk (unsweetened, original)
   - 1 cup unsweetened applesauce
   - 3/4 pound carrots, finely grated (about 3 cups)
   - 1 cup walnuts or pecans, chopped
   - 1 cup seedless raisins

Frosting
   - 12 tablespoons non-hydrogenated margarine, chilled and cut into pieces
   - 1 1/2 pounds soy cream cheese, cold
   - 1 1/2 cups powdered sugar
   - 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Method
For Cake: Preheat oven to 350°F and lightly grease three (9-inch) round cake pans; set aside. Put flour, salt, baking soda, baking powder, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger and egg replacer into a mixing bowl and whisk together to blend. Put sugar in a separate large mixing bowl and whisk in safflower oil, almond milk and applesauce. When fully combined, add almond milk mixture to flour mixture and mix just until smooth. Stir in carrots, walnuts and raisins, then divide batter evenly between the prepared cake pans. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the center springs back gently when pressed. Remove from oven and transfer to racks to let cool completely.

For Frosting: Beat margarine in a large bowl with an electric mixer on medium speed for 3 minutes. Add cream cheese in pieces and mix until thoroughly blended. Slowly add sugar and vanilla and mix until blended. Increase mixer speed slightly and continue mixing for 2 to 3 minutes, until light and fluffy. Cover and set aside until ready to use (I would recommend chilling this for about 20 minutes, just to allow it to stiffen)

For Assembly: Place a cake layer, bottom side up, on a cake plate or pedestal. Spoon one-quarter of the frosting onto the top and spread it evenly. Place a second cake layer, bottom side down, on top of the first, and spread with an equal amount of frosting. Place the final cake layer, bottom side down, on top of the others and frost the top and sides with remaining frosting. Cover and chill until ready to serve or set aside to let set for 30 minutes, then cut into slices and serve.

"Zucchini Makes a Healthier Bread"

One of my favorite locations in Boston is the North End, for three reasons: 1) Little Italy, 2) Quincy Market, and 3) Farmer's Market. THe latter of these is arguable my favorite, considering it has saved me hundreds on fresh produce. Sometimes, though, you get more than you bargained for and end up having a fridge full of produce that you have no chance of finishing before it goes bad. One such example is from my most recent trip to the market, where I purchased 2 enormous zucchini. The solution? Bake with it, and 'tis the season for sweet spiced breads (i.e. pumpkin, sweet potato, etc). 

The phrase "zucchini makes a healthier bread" was precisely the belief of American households in the 1960s, when the recipe first became popular (according to Jean Anderson, author of The American Century Cookbook). It was also believed that baking with oil rather than butter was better for you, and thus quick breads like this one became extremely popular. Granted, zucchini bread is not usually frosted (like other sweet breads), and it employs fresh zucchini, but it is by no means a "healthier" food. 

The recipe for zucchini bread descends from a long line of European sweet vegetable desserts, such as my previous entry on Carrot Cake. Unlike carrots, though, the flavor of zucchini cannot take credit for the bread's overall taste. It is more the fibrous delicacy of the vegetable that creates a beautiful, moist texture. This is why it is ill-advised to pat the shredded zucchini dry, which some recipes call for. This recipe requires no electronic mixer (regardless of how much I adore my KitchenAid), and can be in the oven in less than 15 minutes. One word of caution: this recipe calls for a baking time of 60 minutes, though I would recommend testing the bread for doneness after 40 minutes. I only used pecans in my bread, though a number of add-ins are possible for this recipe (see below). 


Zucchini Bread 


Adapted from SmittenKitchen 

Yield: 2 loaves or approximately 24 muffins

Ingredients

- 3 eggs


- 1 cup olive or vegetable oil


- 1 3/4 cups sugar


- 2 cups grated zucchini


- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract


- 3 cups all-purpose flour


- 3 teaspoons cinnamon


- 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg


- 1 teaspoon baking soda


- 1/2 teaspoon baking powder


- 1 teaspoon salt


- 1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans (optional)


- 1 cup dried cranberries, raisins or chocolate chips or a combination thereof (optional)

Directions

Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour two 8×4 inch loaf pans, liberally. Alternately, line 24 muffin cups with paper liners. In a large bowl, beat the eggs with a whisk. Mix in oil and sugar, then zucchini and vanilla. Combine flour, cinnamon, nutmeg, baking soda, baking powder and salt, and whisk together. Stir this into the egg mixture. Add the nuts, chocolate chips and/or dried fruit, if using. Divide the batter into prepared pans.

Bake loaves for 60 minutes, plus or minus ten, or until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean. Muffins will bake far more quickly, approximately 20 to 25 minutes.

Nutella: The Way To Anyone's Heart

I can attribute the prolonged absence from my blogging duties to a single anathema: MOVING. Having relocated my entire existence 3 times in the past 4 months, there is no other term for the process. Nonetheless, the new place is AMAZING, and I finally have a kitchen that caters to my every baking desire. Space (finally, it's not a closet!), a gas oven/stovetop, a functional refrigerator, an enormous pantry, and more have all made the horrors of moving more than worth it.

But I imagine this information all seems irrelevant considering you read "nutella" in the title. The thought of a smooth, chocolate-hazelnut spread can render even the strongest helpless. It is one of those ingredients that cannot be duplicated (another excellent example being Bailey's). I had been studying a number of recipes that incorporate the spread in hopes of finding one whose flavor profile was contingent on the actual ingredient, rather than just using it as a complement (i.e. chocolate cake with nutella frosting, or cheesecake with nutella swirl...but the later does sound intriguing come to think of it...). It was then I came across Nigella Lawson's Nutella Cake with Chocolate Hazelnut Ganache.

I am composing this entry before my lunch break, a regrettable oversight considering I can now think of nothing else but nutella. This cake is no ordinary chocolate cake, how can it be? The recipe calls for all the usual suspects of a flourless chocolate cake: one stick of butter, eggs, and melted chocolate. But the difference lies in the absence of  sugar and the separation of the eggs (yolks versus whites). The former is obvious: why add more sugar if you have already added an entire container of nutella to the batter? The latter can be explained accordingly: the whites, having been whipped upon separation, prevent the prospects of dense, heavy cake (the reason we all love nutella on its own, though).

Nutella Cake with Chocolate Hazelnut Ganache
Adapted from Nigella Lawson

Ingredients
Cake:

• 6 large eggs, separated
• pinch salt
• 1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened
• 1 13-ounce container Nutellla
• 1 tablespoon rum (I omitted this)
• 1/2 cup finely ground hazelnuts (I omitted this)
• 4 ounces semi-sweet chocolate, melted and cooled

Ganache:

• 4 ounces whole hazelnuts
• 1/2 cup half and half/heavy cream
• 1 tablespoon rum
• 4 ounces semi-sweet chocolate

Directions:For Cake: Preheat oven to 350 degrees; butter a 9-inch springform pan. In a large bowl (preferably metal), whisk the egg whites and salt until stiff. In another bowl, cream the butter and Nutella, then add the rum, egg yolks, and ground hazelnuts. Fold in melted chocolate. Add a blob of beaten egg whites to the chocolate batter, and mix gently until well-combined. Fold in the remaining whites, one-third at a time, very gently but thoroughly. Pour into springform and bake for 40 minutes (my cake only took about 35 minutes; check after 30 just to be safe). Test for doneness by inserting tester, which should come out mostly clean; lightly pressing finger into top to check for a slight bouncing-back; and observing edges beginning to separate from pan. Let cool completely, in pan, on a rack.

Toast the hazelnuts in a dry skillet, or toaster oven shaking them around frequently. Do it for about 4 minutes, or until they are lightly browned, then let cool completely. If hazelnuts came with skins on, put them in a towel after toasting and rub around; this will remove most of the skins.


For Glaze: Chop chocolate, and add to sauce pan with half and half and rum over medium-low heat. Once chocolate is melted and components are combined, whisk until mixture reaches desired thickness, then cool. Remove rim of cake pan and pour cooled ganache over, spreading lightly to create a smooth, shiny surface, and apply hazelnuts all over.

"Carrots are divine... You get a dozen for a dime, It's maaaa-gic!"

We all know Bugs Bunny can't resist the temptation of a carrot (as shown in the title of this post). And the ever-expanding healthy movement has embraced it's nutritional values as the perfect snacking commodity (especially with hummus, a personal favorite!). But who ever got the idea to put carrots into a dessert?

According to Wikipedia, using carrots as a sweetening agent has been in effect since medieval times, given it was more affordable and readily available than conventional sweeteners. The carrot was a good substitute because, like the sugar beet, it has a higher sugar content than other vegetables. Sweet and cheap? Bugs Bunny couldn't have put it better...

Now that I've ranted about carrots, I should confess that this cake by no means solely depends on the sugar content of the carrot. It packs a LOT of flavor, and is a bit more of an intense carrot cake than the one grandma used to make. Nonetheless, I can guarantee you won't be disappointed.

Now let's talk about this cake - the recipe comes from one of my favorite blogs, SimplyRecipes, and is apparently a family heirloom. I made this for a trumpet friend of mine, Tom Daniels - granted, his birthday had been several weeks prior, but I keep my word. Obviously we have carrots, but there are two power ingredients in this recipe that caught my attention. The secret to a great carrot cake is getting the perfect moist texture. Most recipes use oil (from safflower to olive, the latter being what I used), but some call for either crushed pineapple or applesauce as well. This one uses crushed pineapple, a flavor I feel pairs better with carrot in this instance. But it was the addition of shredded COCONUT that made me realize this was an offer I couldn't refuse.

I warned you this was an intense carrot cake. But I've always had the "sky's the limit" approach when trying new baking recipes, so this was right up my alley. That being said, there are plenty of other recipes out there worth trying. One recipe I can personally recommend is from the Joy of Baking. I just couldn't resist that coconut...

Okay, so I slipped up on this recipe - I completely forgot to add the walnuts to the batter. To my credit, it was 95 DEGREES outside, and thinking becomes a little cloudy when you are standing in a kitchen, while preheating an oven, and the weather feels as though it could bake a cake itself (also my excuse for not having as many photos during the process). My solution? Add the nuts (even more finely chopped than what the recipe calls for) to the cream cheese icing! So it sort of defeat the purpose, but that killer set of ingredients did their job without fail and it still turned out to be an AMAZING cake!

Notes: I used unsweetened coconut and added about 1 tsp of confectioner's sugar and a few drop of water. The recipe says it will take about 45 - 50 minutes, whereas mine took about 40 - 42. Make sure to check after 35 just to be safe. Also (as reflected in the directions) I mixed the ingredients a little differently than called for to a) allow better incorporation and b) prevent the works from flying all over my kitchen.

Carrot Cake Recipe

Adapted from SimplyRecipes

Serves 12-16

Ingredients

Cake

• 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour
• 2 cups sugar
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 Tbsp baking soda
• 1 Tbsp cinnamon
• 1 1/2 cups olive oil or grapeseed oil
• 4 large eggs, lightly beaten
• 1 Tbsp vanilla extract
• 1 1/2 cups shelled walnuts, chopped (what I left out, oops! Reserve extra for garnish)
• 1 1/2 cups sweetened, shredded coconut (I used unsweetened + 1 tsp powdered sugar)
• 2 cups of finely grated carrots
• 1 cup of drained crushed pineapple

Frosting

• 8 oz cream cheese, at room temperature
• 6 Tbsp unsalted butter, room temp
• 2 1/2 cups of confectioners' sugar
• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
• 2 Tbsp lemon juice
• (technically this is where the walnuts fell in my own creation)

Directions

For Cake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Butter and flour two 9-inch cake pans. Sift dry ingredients into the bowl of a stand mixer (or a large mixing bowl if using a hand mixer). Combine oil, eggs, and vanilla in a separate bowl (I would suggest a wet measure cup or comparably sized pitcher to allow easy pouring). Slowly incorporate the wet ingredients into the dry, beating on a low speed after every addition. Once all the oil mixture has been incorporated, make sure to beat well. Fold in chopped walnuts, coconut, carrots and pineapple (or in my case, forget about the walnuts, haha!)

Pour batter into pans. Set on the middle rack of oven and bake for 45-50 minutes (shift positions of cakes front-to-back if necessary about halfway through), until edges have pulled away from sides and a toothpick or sharp knife tip inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool on a cake rack.

For Icing: Cream together the cream cheese and butter in a mixing bowl. Slowly sift in the confectioners sugar and beat until mixture is free of lumps. Stir in vanilla and lemon juice.

For Assembly: Once cakes have cooled, place one layer, flat side down, on a cake plate/caddy/presentation platter of choosing and spread about 1/2-cup of frosting over top. Top with second layer and frost the remainder of the cake. Sprinkle top with chopped walnuts or arrange walnut halves in a crown around the top (Note: if you forgot the nuts, like me, then feel free to add them in between the layers as well as around the cake).

Win